Switchel, the old haymaker's drink of vinegar, ginger and maple

Switchel is cold water sharpened with apple cider vinegar, warmed with fresh ginger and sweetened with maple syrup. It tastes tart, gingery and only lightly sweet, somewhere between a lemonade and a very mild ginger beer. You stir it together in five minutes and let it sit for an hour if you have time.

It has a long history as a working drink. In the American colonies and on 19th-century farms, especially in New England, jugs of switchel were carried out to the fields at haying time, which is why it is also called haymaker's punch. Recipes varied with what was in the larder: molasses, honey or maple for sweetness, vinegar for sharpness, ginger for heat. Where it came from before that is not certain; some food historians link it to drinks from the Caribbean, where molasses and ginger were plentiful.

How to make it

1. Grate the ginger finely into a jar or jug. Leave the skin on if it is thin and clean.
2. Add the apple cider vinegar, maple syrup and salt, if using, and stir until the syrup dissolves.
3. Pour in the cold water, stir and taste. Add a little more maple syrup or vinegar to balance it.
4. Cover and leave in the fridge for at least an hour, so the ginger can flavour the water.
5. Strain if you want a clear drink, or leave the ginger in for more bite.
6. Serve over ice in jars or tall glasses.

Getting the balance right

Switchel lives or dies on the balance of sour and sweet. Equal parts vinegar and maple is a good start. Apple cider vinegars differ in strength and flavour, so taste before you serve.

Tips for the best flavour

• Use raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar if you can. It tastes fruitier and less harsh than clear, filtered vinegar. The cloudy "mother" in the bottle is harmless.
• Grate the ginger finely. It flavours cold water faster than slices.
• Real maple syrup. Pancake syrup is mostly corn syrup and flavouring and gives a flat sweetness.
• Add the salt. A small pinch makes it taste rounder and was common in old recipes for field workers.
• Serve it very cold. Warm switchel tastes noticeably more of vinegar.

Variations

• Molasses switchel: replace half the maple syrup with dark molasses for the older, deeper flavour.
• Honey: use honey dissolved in a little warm water, as in our ginger lemon tonic.
• Sparkling: use soda water instead of still water and add it just before serving.
• Lemon: add the juice of half a lemon and use a little less vinegar for a brighter drink.
• Spiced: drop in a cinnamon stick or a few slices of fresh turmeric while it rests.

Make ahead and storage

Switchel keeps well. Mix a jug, cover it and keep it in the fridge for up to five days. The ginger flavour grows stronger each day, so strain it after the first day if you prefer it gentle. Shake or stir before pouring, because the ginger and maple settle.

Questions people ask

Does switchel have health benefits?

Switchel is often sold as a health drink, and many of the claims go further than the evidence. A few small studies suggest that vinegar taken with a meal may slightly reduce the rise in blood sugar afterwards, and ginger may help with mild nausea. Neither makes switchel a treatment, and it does not "detox" anything.

Is switchel a good drink for hot days?

It was made for hard work in summer heat, and it is a pleasant way to get more fluid. For most everyday activity water is enough. Our guide to electrolytes explains when a little salt and sugar in a drink actually helps.

How much sugar is in it?

A tablespoon of maple syrup contains roughly 12 g of sugar. This recipe uses two tablespoons for two glasses, so about 12 g per glass, much less than a can of cola. You can cut it further; see our guide to sugar in drinks for comparisons.

Photograph: AI-generated image

Filed under switchel, apple cider vinegar, ginger, maple.