Ayran, the frothy salted yoghurt drink of Turkey

Ayran is plain yoghurt whisked with cold water and a pinch of salt until it is thin and frothy. It is tangy, lightly salted and very cold, and it is the drink most people in Turkey reach for with a plate of kebab, pide or lahmacun. It takes three minutes and three ingredients.

It is not a sweet drink, which surprises people who know only fruit lassis. Think of it as a savoury, drinkable yoghurt. Close relatives are made across a wide region: doogh in Iran, often fizzy and with mint, tan in Armenia, and similar salted yoghurt drinks through the Balkans, the Caucasus and Central Asia.

How to make it

1. Put the yoghurt and salt in a jug and whisk for a few seconds until smooth.
2. Pour in the cold water slowly, whisking all the time, so the yoghurt does not form lumps.
3. Keep whisking hard for 30 seconds, or blend for 10 seconds, until a thick layer of foam forms on top.
4. Taste and add a little more salt or water if you want.
5. Pour into cold glasses or copper cups, with ice if you like, and serve straight away with the foam on top.

Getting the ratio right

Ayran has no single correct thickness. Home cooks and brands vary from almost half and half to much thicker. Start with equal parts and adjust to your taste and your yoghurt.

Strained or Greek-style yoghurt is much thicker than the yoghurt used for ayran in Turkey, so it needs more water, often one and a half or two parts water to one part yoghurt.

Tips for the best flavour

• Use plain, full-fat yoghurt. Low-fat yoghurt makes a thin, sour ayran with less foam. Do not use flavoured or sweetened yoghurt.
• Everything cold. Cold yoghurt and cold water froth better and taste fresher.
• Whisk, do not just stir. The foam is part of the drink. A blender or a stick blender gives the most, but a hand whisk works.
• Salt to taste. A quarter teaspoon for two glasses is a starting point. It should taste seasoned, not salty.

Why the copper cup

In Turkey, ayran is sometimes served in small copper cups called bakır tas, especially in restaurants and with kebab. The metal feels cold in the hand and the cup keeps the foam on top. A tall glass works just as well at home.

Variations

• Mint: a pinch of dried mint on top, or a few fresh leaves blended in, gives it a lift. It is especially common in the Iranian doogh.
• Sparkling: use cold soda water instead of still water for a fizzy version close to doogh. Add it at the end and stir gently, or it foams over.
• Cucumber: blend in a few slices of peeled cucumber for an even cooler drink.
• Sweet cousin: if you prefer a sweet yoghurt drink, try our mango lassi, which comes from the same idea in India.

Make ahead and storage

Ayran is best freshly whisked. You can keep it covered in the fridge for up to a day, but the foam disappears and the yoghurt slowly settles. Whisk again before you pour.

Questions people ask

Does ayran have probiotics?

Ayran made with live yoghurt contains the same live cultures as the yoghurt, diluted with water. Research on fermented foods and gut health is promising but still developing, and the effect of any single drink is likely to be small. Our guide to fermented foods explains what is known so far.

Is ayran good on a hot day?

It is a traditional hot-weather drink, and it gives you fluid, a little salt and some protein together. For most everyday activity water is enough, as our guide to electrolytes explains, but ayran is a pleasant change, especially with a meal.

How much protein is in a glass?

Plain full-fat yoghurt has roughly 3 to 4 g of protein per 100 g, so a glass made with 100 g of yoghurt has about that much. Using Greek yoghurt roughly doubles it. If you want more protein at breakfast, see our high-protein breakfast ideas.

Photograph: AI-generated image

Filed under ayran, yoghurt, turkish, savoury drinks.